Braised Oxtail in Milanese Style: A Perfect Interpretation of Tradition and Substitution

When I set out to write this recipe, I hesitated over whether to use the term “Italian Milanese-style braise,” because the most classic version—_Ossobucco alla Milanese_—is made with veal shank, not oxtail. The name Ossobucco comes from Italian: osso (bone) and bucco (hole), referring to a cross-cut veal shank with marrow and tendon. The dish originates from Milan, hence “alla Milanese.” Because the shank contains rich tendon, the cooking principle is similar to that of beef shin in Chinese cuisine—long, slow simmering transforms the connective tissue into a soft, gelatinous texture, making the meat tender and succulent.

Authentic ossobucco calls for veal shank, preferably from young calves, otherwise the shank is too large and may turn out tough after prolonged cooking. However, in China, this cut is usually deboned and sold as beef shin, which is more commercially viable. Thus, finding a proper veal shank—especially from a young calf—is extremely difficult, whether online or in physical stores. For this reason, I use oxtail as a substitute. Oxtail is also ideal for slow cooking—it has bone, firm meat that doesn’t fall apart, and plenty of sinew. The only drawback is that it lacks the marrow of the shank, but it’s the best compromise under the circumstances.

What follows is a recipe for braised oxtail in Milanese style. This braise belongs to the culinary tradition of northern Italy—an old and classic dish, as widespread as ragù, and a true Italian “mamma” recipe. Every family has its own variation, so there is no single “correct” version, but the overall seasoning approach remains fairly consistent.

For this stew, I recommend quality grass-fed oxtail. Compared to grain-fed cattle raised in feedlots, grass-fed animals are pasture-raised and constantly move to graze, which develops longer muscle fibres, more connective tissue, and stronger fasciae. As a result, the meat holds its shape better after long cooking and delivers a deeper, beefier flavour. That said, some grass-fed beef may come from cattle treated with hormones or antibiotics, so please check the label. High-quality, hormone-free grass-fed Angus beef can be just as expensive as its grain-fed counterparts. I used New Zealand Silver Fern Farms grass-fed beef for this recipe.

For the braise, gather 1000 g oxtail, 30 g carrot, 35 g celery, 200 g onion, 10 g minced garlic, 15 g olive oil, 75 g butter, 220 g white wine, 3 g bay leaves, 66 g puréed canned tomatoes, 800 g veal stock or water, and cornstarch as needed. For the gremolata-style garnish, set out one lemon, one orange, two garlic cloves, and a handful of chopped parsley, fresh or dried.

To begin, peel and wash the carrot, celery, and onion, then dice them into 0.5-cm cubes. Mince the 10 g of garlic. Keep the carrot separate; the rest can be mixed together. Rinse and pat the oxtail dry, dust it with cornstarch, and shake off any excess. Heat a Dutch oven, preferably enamelled cast iron, over medium heat and add some olive oil. The pot needs 5–10 minutes to heat up properly; you can judge by the aroma of the oil or by inserting a chopstick. Place the oxtail pieces in the pot and sear until browned on both sides. If the oil runs low, gradually add the butter, up to the total 75 g. Once seared, remove the oxtail and set it aside. Add any remaining butter to the pot, then cook the carrot cubes until soft. Add the celery, onion, and minced garlic and sauté until fragrant. Pour in the white wine and cook until almost dry. Stir in the bay leaves and the puréed canned tomatoes. Put the seared oxtail back into the pot and add the veal stock or water. Cover, reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting, and simmer for 1.5 hours. A heat diffuser is helpful to prevent scorching. After about 1 hour, check the pot: if the liquid is still abundant, continue simmering; if it has reduced to a thick sauce, stir frequently to avoid sticking to the bottom. If you cannot watch the pot constantly, you can place the covered Dutch oven in a preheated oven at 150°C and let it roast for 2 or more hours; the result is equally good. To make the garnish, use a zester to grate the zest of the orange and lemon. Mince the two garlic cloves and mix them with the chopped parsley. Set aside. Remove the pot from the heat, sprinkle the gremolata mixture over the oxtail, and serve immediately.

After long simmering in the Dutch oven, the meat fibres become extremely tender, so tearing the meat apart is effortless. The cornstarch coating on the oxtail, combined with the pot’s excellent moisture retention and starch gelatinisation, results in a naturally thick sauce—similar to Chinese “velveting”—that clings beautifully to the meat, imparting a rich, full-bodied, and velvety mouthfeel.

In terms of flavour, the first impression is a bright citrus aroma with a subtle garlicky kick. As you chew, the sauce reveals layers of tomato tang, wine depth, savoury vegetable and stock notes, and finally the natural sweetness and robust beefiness of the grass-fed oxtail. If you enjoy Italian dishes with intense, tomato-based sauces, this braised oxtail is sure to delight.